Katham House

For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure.

Moderator: GnATTERbox Moderators

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Katham House

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Tue May 27, 2008 6:55 pm

OK, made a start on the Gn15 layout that Gneeds to be ready (along with the Gnine one) by August 10th.

The name is a bit of a pun, but might go over the heads of a lot of people (not on this forum, most people in here are Gnearly as mad as me :wink: ), but I like it and that's what counts :twisted: I was trying to come up with a name on a feline theme :D

Anyone Gnow where I can get some 1:22.5 scale mice? I already have some suitable cats :D :D

OK, a couple of pictures, the layout is 24"x24", and will have a removable storage facility that will hold 2 tracks. The idea is that these storage sidings will sit behind the Gnine layout when the two layouts are on the table :wink:

Image

The board with the trackplan drawn on in pencil, ruling curves are 7" radius.

Image

Track laid and fixed, all dropper wires soldered in place, the modified Peco Streamline Electrofrog Wye Point matches the Peco O-16.5 Crazy Track wonderfully :D

I tested the track with a Bachmann 0-6-0 loco (same chassis as the "Thomas") and I had to ease one tight spot on the curve just to the right of the point in the top of the picture, the loco was derailing about one go in five, but only in one direction. Once the curve was eased by about 3mm in that one spot (two sleepers worth) then the loco had no more problems getting round the track, but you could hear the flanges in contact with the rail in four places :wink: :D

The length of run is a fraction under 2 yards, and I had the Bachmann 0-6-0 flat out around it. It was lapping the track in just about three seconds :shock:

Didn't derail though :D :D
Barry Weston

If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.

The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....

Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Tue May 27, 2008 7:30 pm

A Sundeala surface to your board :?: Thats a bit of a rarity these days, it seems to have gone out of fashion, but still one of the best.
That modified turnout looks great with the rest of the track, a perfect match, you can call that a result :) .
Wondered when you would get a feline name for a layout :lol: good choice.
Steve Bennett
Sidelines
http://www.pepper7.com

User avatar
Jon Randall
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 956
Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2007 11:18 pm
Location: NW Leics, England
Interests: Narrow gauge railways, modelling

Postby Jon Randall » Tue May 27, 2008 7:31 pm

Good start Barry.
The wye point looks perfect.
Jon Randall

Needs to stop procrastinating and start modelling

User avatar
Jon Randall
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 956
Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2007 11:18 pm
Location: NW Leics, England
Interests: Narrow gauge railways, modelling

Postby Jon Randall » Tue May 27, 2008 7:34 pm

Katham House.
Sounds like a British ex-pat's house in India to me.
Jon Randall

Needs to stop procrastinating and start modelling

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Tue May 27, 2008 7:51 pm

Yup, good old Sundela, we have a supplier near here that can supply it cut to size in several different colours :D This is 12mm thick. I still prefer it to most other surfaces.

I Gnow where you're coming from with that theory Jon, but it's the closest I could get to "Cat and Mouse" (say "Katham House" quickly :wink: )
I could stick a large plastic model of Mickey Mouse in the centre and call it "Kartoom House" :wink: :twisted:
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Nick Ellingworth
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 515
Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 12:03 pm
Location: Gnorfolk
Interests: Many things

Postby Nick Ellingworth » Tue May 27, 2008 8:13 pm

Looking good Barry, I look forward to seeing it develop. You've also reminded me that I should take photos of my work in progress layout at some point. :oops:

User avatar
rue_d_etropal
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 2158
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 4:55 pm
Location: Accrington and sometimes France
Interests: France, any narrow/minmum gauge 40cm,50cm , 60cm

Postby rue_d_etropal » Tue May 27, 2008 9:48 pm

Anyone Gnow where I can get some 1:22.5 scale mice?


not mice but military modellers do 1/35th scale rats, which it might be possible to modify
Simon Dawson
(Simon D.),
Narrow gauge Francophile interested in 1m, 60cm,50cm , 40cm and smaller gauges . Build in scales from 1/6th to 1/24th. Also 1/32nd and 1/35th using 16.5mm track to represent 50cm and 60cm gauges.
http://www.rue-d-etropal.com

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Tue May 27, 2008 10:04 pm

rue_d_etropal wrote:
Anyone Gnow where I can get some 1:22.5 scale mice?


not mice but military modellers do 1/35th scale rats, which it might be possible to modify


Thanks Simon, I'll investigate and see if I can trap a few :D
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Rockley Bottom
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 861
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:48 am
Location: Norwich Norfolk
Interests: NG railways

Postby Rockley Bottom » Wed May 28, 2008 1:14 am

Hi Barry

Great start :!:
I like the idea of checking out the track and getting that working first before starting on the buildings etc.

I like the cat and mouse connections, what took so long before using that theme. :!: :!:

regards
Ralph

User avatar
Dave Westall
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 218
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2004 10:13 am
Location: Norfolk, UK
Interests: NG Railways, Pre-1968 BR (LMR)

Postby Dave Westall » Wed May 28, 2008 7:07 pm

Rockley Bottom wrote:Hi Barry

Great start :!:
I like the idea of checking out the track and getting that working first before starting on the buildings etc.

I like the cat and mouse connections, what took so long before using that theme. :!: :!:

regards
Ralph


I agree with Ralph, we've been trying to get you to do that connection since you joined the GnOrfolkers :wink:

Dave
May your wheels never rust.

User avatar
Gerry Bullock
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 3220
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 8:07 pm
Location: S.E.Essex
Interests: Gn15 and O Gauge at Club.

Postby Gerry Bullock » Wed May 28, 2008 8:09 pm

You should be able to make mice quite easily using Fimo plus a bit of fine wire for the tail. Tracey from Blackburn supplied me with some 1/24 scale rats so I made one modelled on them.
A large house mouse is a mere 20cms in length with half that being the tail so your mice are going to be very small < 1cm overall length.
Wouldn't rats be better :?: :wink: :lol:
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.
http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Wed May 28, 2008 9:48 pm

Found myself very short of time today to browse the forum, been busy elsewhere :wink:

Point operation and frog polarity switching has been occupying my time tonight. I have some slide switches that have the same throw as Peco turnouts, so that makes things all the easier. Did you know that the hole in the tiebar of Peco points will tap 10BA without re-drilling? I do! :twisted: :twisted:

Image

A bracket with slide switch attached and hole drilled through the slider which is tapped 10BA. A long 10BA bolt is then threaded through the switch handle and up into tapped hole in the tiebar. Once you have it in the correct position and working correctly, the bracket can be secured to the underside of the baseboard.

Image

The end of the 10BA bolt can be seen in the hole in the centre of the tiebar. I will add the operating rod later.

As the other two points will be behind the backscene, they can be operated from above the baseboard, but still need the polarity of the frog to be switched.

When sitting in the car eating lunch today, I worked out a solution to the problem.

Image

Two switches let into the baseboard, holes drilled and tapped 10BA in the slide handles, and a long 10BA bolt with a 10BA washer with the hole opened out slightly soldered onto the head of the bolt. These were then threaded into the holes in the switches and adjusted for the location, the switches were then ACC'd in place in the holes.

Image

Image

As can be seen from the photo above, I had to make an extended plate for the point on the left of the pair as I had to have the switch further back from the point. Something to do with where the support timber underneath the baseboard is :oops:
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Gavin Sowry
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 780
Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 1:06 am
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Interests: Railways, of course. Cricket , Footy and Holden cars!

Postby Gavin Sowry » Wed May 28, 2008 9:58 pm

:D just picked up on this thread....I tried Thomas out on my 8" curves, and he doth complain. 10" absolute min is what I'm going for on the layout for the grandkids. I too, have tacked track straight on to the board...you end up getting a nice rumbling effect when operating- real sound :!:
Gavin Sowry
Gn15 Gnu Zealand

User avatar
Gavin Sowry
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 780
Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 1:06 am
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Interests: Railways, of course. Cricket , Footy and Holden cars!

Postby Gavin Sowry » Wed May 28, 2008 10:03 pm

More_Cats_Than_Sense wrote:I could stick a large plastic model of Mickey Mouse in the centre ...


:evil: That, has been done before.....an at an exhibition, no less (when Paul wasn't looking, of course :!: )
Gavin Sowry

Gn15 Gnu Zealand

dr5euss
Demi-Millegniumer
Demi-Millegniumer
Posts: 752
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:54 pm

Postby dr5euss » Wed May 28, 2008 10:19 pm

That overhead of the modified OO point is very useful :D

Are you gonna have to hack a great lump out the Sundeala for the trench?

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Wed May 28, 2008 10:20 pm

Very elegant work on the switches there Barry.
Interesting about the 10BA bolt aswell, I'm sure that will come in useful at sometime, will add that to the useful info braincell, yes the rest are full of useless info :lol:
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Thu May 29, 2008 7:33 pm

dr5euss wrote:That overhead of the modified OO point is very useful :D

Are you gonna have to hack a great lump out the Sundeala for the trench?


Unless I want to build a trench above the baseboard, the answer will be "yes" :wink: That's one of the things I like about Sundela, it is easy to cut with a sharp knife, plus you can roughen the surface to imitate rough ground. :D

No progress on the layout tonight, I had a very busy day at work, I offered to do a small job for a colleague on the way home to save him from going out of his way................

There is a phrase:-

"No good turn (or favour) goes unpunished!"

What should have taken ten minutes, turned into two hours because of damage caused by intruders into the site :evil: :evil:

And this was on top of a day where things didn't go quite to plan on my planned work :roll: :roll:
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

Harald
True GnATTERbox
True GnATTERbox
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 6:32 am
Location: Vienna, Austria
Interests: private railway company in northern Germany in the late 50's (H0, 1:87) and - of course - Gn15!

Re: Katham House

Postby Harald » Fri May 30, 2008 3:38 pm

More_Cats_Than_Sense wrote:Anyone Gnow where I can get some 1:22.5 scale mice?


I wanted to say "Yes!" for days but decided to wait until I found my mice ... I bought a set of 2 dogs, 2 cats and 2 mice (white metall) two years ago from http://www.modellbahn-bedarf.de/ ... unfortunately I had to read that they are closing because they retire. :cry:

But they are seraching for somebody to take over the range ...

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Sat May 31, 2008 9:14 pm

The end of a VERY frustrating day producing a remote operating mechanism for the point at the front of the layout. The routing of the rodding is complicated by the fact there will be a trench cut into the baseboard.

Image

Image

Image

Image


This is a simple task that should have taken four to five hours to construct, fit and adjust, but it has taken about 12 hours and still doesn't work correctly. To make matters worse, the point lever I intended to use didn't have enough throw (I've got the geometry wrong on the crank next to the point) and the design change to a new device doesn't work as I intended.


Back to the drawing board :roll:
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Steve Bennett
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 4512
Joined: Sat May 17, 2003 12:55 am
Location: Exeter, UK
Interests: railways?

Postby Steve Bennett » Sat May 31, 2008 9:24 pm

More_Cats_Than_Sense wrote:Back to the drawing board :roll:


Looks good though :wink:
Better luck tomorrow mate, will be better after a good nights sleep, assuming you dont wake up in the middle of the night with a bright idea on how to get it to work :wink: Good luck.
Steve Bennett

Sidelines

http://www.pepper7.com

User avatar
Gerry Bullock
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 3220
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 8:07 pm
Location: S.E.Essex
Interests: Gn15 and O Gauge at Club.

Postby Gerry Bullock » Sun Jun 01, 2008 7:35 am

Barry although all those cranks should work as you've found a slight inaccuracy can result in a failure.
Why don't you adopt the KISS principle and use a tube in tube control then you only have to clamp the ends of outer tube. If you use the nylon systems for radio controlled model planes there's sufficient friction for a positive result. In any case you could always leave the final crank in the system.
I've also used the control wires from a car door mirror but these are very short so might not suit your installation. There's always bicycle cables. :wink:
So little time, so many ideas!!!!! GerryB.

http://gn15gnutt.blogspot.com/

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:05 am

Gerry Bullock wrote:Why don't you adopt the KISS principle and use a tube in tube control then you only have to clamp the ends of outer tube. If you use the nylon systems for radio controlled model planes there's sufficient friction for a positive result. In any case you could always leave the final crank in the system.


You mean like this?

Image
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Stu
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:32 pm
Location: Worthing, West Sussex. UK.
Interests: Narrow Gauge & US outline

Postby Stu » Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:11 am

I take it your not a fan of point motors Barry?

The Fulgurex slow action point motor has built in switches for polarity. OK granted, it doesn't look quite as nice as all the brass and it probably costs a little more, but it's a lot less of a headache..
A coffee table used for coffee is a waste of space!

User avatar
More_Cats_Than_Sense
Millegniumer
Millegniumer
Posts: 1241
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:10 am
Location: Suffolk, UK
Interests: Railways, Cats, Computers, Beer

Postby More_Cats_Than_Sense » Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:21 am

I've nothing against point motors Stu, I used them on this layout.

Image

I have fulgurex point motors available but didn't want to go down the route of having an auxiliary power supply to the baseboard.
Barry Weston



If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.



The only thing that keeps me sane, is the friendship I share with my collection of singing potatoes....



Never knowingly sensible!

User avatar
Stu
GnatterBox Centurion
GnatterBox Centurion
Posts: 108
Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:32 pm
Location: Worthing, West Sussex. UK.
Interests: Narrow Gauge & US outline

Postby Stu » Sun Jun 01, 2008 10:09 am

More_Cats_Than_Sense wrote:I have fulgurex point motors available but didn't want to go down the route of having an auxiliary power supply to the baseboard.


That's fair enough, was just wondering. I know there are some people that will only use push rod devices for points, just seems a tad over complicated to me when trying to cover any sort of distance..

I'm all for simplicity and electrics so I'm no help here! lol
A coffee table used for coffee is a waste of space!


Return to “Modelling Matters”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 3 guests